Case Study 1.6: Telegraph Hill

This will be my last San Francisco post for the foreseeable future. I am aware that there are other neighborhoods in the city which fulfill the criteria I'm interested in, such as the Haight, but it's always seemed a bit out there for me, set apart from downtown by a few not so great neighborhoods.

Telegraph Hill is the most northeasterly residential neighborhood in San Francisco, visible for miles around thanks to Coit Tower at the peak of the hill. By the same architects who designed city hall, the tower was built in 1933 to commemorate the firemen of the city. Originally an Irish neighborhood in the 19th century, in the 1920's it became a magnet for bohemians and intellectuals. Though long gone, the neighborhood's namesake is a signalling semaphore built in 1849 to alert businessmen in the city of approaching ships and their cargo. The nearby port was supplied with stone ballast quarried from the hill, the result of which is a steep cliff on the east side of the hill. A landslide in 2007 forced the evacuation of many residents. Telegraph Hill is bounded by Broadway on its south edge, Sansome east, Bay north, and Stockton and Columbus west. There's a bit of overlap with North Beach on the western border, resulting in a diversity of commercial uses on Stockton Street and around Washington Square, but in general this is a residential neighborhood. 

Telegraph Hill 1866. Image Library of Congress

1885. Image San Francisco Public Library

1920. Image San Francisco Public Library

Southwest corner of Telegraph Hill, Broadway and Columbus

Case Study 1.5: Russian Hill

This neighborhood of San Francisco is named after a Russian cemetery discovered atop the hill by gold rushers in the 19th century. The cemetery is long gone, and there hasn't been a Russian presence in the area for a long time, but the name has stuck. The area is most famous for that winding bit of Lombard Street known as the "crookedest street" in the world. Even in Street View the street is crowded with tourists, but the neighborhood has much more to offer than just one street. Though almost entirely destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, the area was quickly rebuilt and a lot of interesting architecture survives from the early 20th century. Borders are Broadway to the south, Mason, Columbus Avenue and the trendy neighborhood of North Beach on the east, Van Ness Avenue to the west, and Bay Street separating the neighborhood from touristy Fisherman's Wharf to the north.

Russian Hill behind, immediately after the 1906 earthquake and subsequent fire. Image Frank Soule

Russian Hill is one of the city's original seven hills and is characterized by steep streets, a result of not modifying the usual street grid to better suit the terrain. Grades of 30 degrees are not uncommon. Occasionally, however, a street may be found off grid, especially in particularly steep areas, such as Lombard Street. It is also common to find staircases in place of or alongside sidewalks and the very steepest streets do away with a road altogether, instead opting for greenery.

View from Broadway towards downtown

Russian Hill is not so much one clearly defined hill but rather a crest which runs from the summit at the southeast corner of the neighborhood to nearly the northwest corner at George Sterling Park. The neighborhood's unusual topography has resulted in a diverse area, with homes often occupying steep sites and excellent views in all directions. Many of these homes can be found at  the hill's summit around Vallejo Street while Hyde Street skims the park at the peak of the crest on the north edge.

Following the crest from the south. Hyde is the tree-lined street center-left

Russian Hill summit in 1908, just two years after the earthquake

The summit today, as before one of the least dense areas of the neighborhood

The view from the summit at the top of Vallejo

Vallejo Street, an expensive cul-de-sac

Case Study 1.4: Presidio Heights

For whatever reason, information about Presidio Heights is scarce. Apart from a few short descriptions, I haven't been able to find any background information, no history, and just a few real estate statistics. Perhaps because it's not one of San Francisco's iconic neighborhoods, and it's not nearly as close to downtown as the other neighborhoods I've been looking at. It's not popular as a hip destination, and doesn't have great views unto the rest of the city. Though it does have a nice view of the Presidio and the Bay beyond. Presidio Heights is also a fairly young neighborhood, lacking the myriad of historical homes found elsewhere. The neighborhood is by and large an upscale residential area. 

On the neighborhood's boundaries, information is also a bit spotty. About the northern and southern borders (Pacific Avenue and California Street, respectively), there is no disagreement. The western border is of some dispute, with real estate companies including the gated community of Presidio Terrace but the residents association stopping at Arguello Boulevard. The image above includes the Terrace but in actuality the association is probably more correct. The eastern border is more complicated. Almost all sources describe the border at Presidio Avenue, but the block over doesn't really have the feel of Pacific Heights. In fact, it still looks like Presidio Heights. Or rather, the block bordered by Presidio/Pacific/Lyon/Jackson. That's how I see it and that's the area I'll focus on in this study. 

Pacific Avenue east of Presidio Avenue. The cobbled streets are a welcome addition and greatly enhance the streetscape

Pacific Avenue west of Presidio Avenue, with the Presidio visible down the hill

Northeast corner of the neighborhood

The same corner as above, but looking south

The presence of the Presidio is stronger in Presidio Heights than in any other neighborhood. It's not just some park off to the side. It runs along the entire northern border of the neighborhood, pulling the entire neighborhoods towards it. Apart from a couple playgrounds, it's the only green space in the vicinity, hence its importance. Many of the most expensive homes along Pacific Avenue face directly towards the park, but from any point in the neighborhood the Presidio is at most a few blocks walk. Access could be slightly better though. Dividing the neighborhood and the Presidio is a short wall and West Pacific Avenue, a fairly busy road. Hence, there are only a few people crossings along its length. It must be frustrating not to have direct access from any block, but one upside to this strategy is that activity is centered around a few recreation areas, such as Julius Kahn Playground, which has a baseball field and tennis courts. This centralization ensures a vibrant community atmosphere, responsible for Presidio Height's distinction as a family friendly neighborhood, sort of like London's Fulham to Chelsea (Pacific Heights being Chelsea). 

Julius Kahn Playground on the left

This being the US, however, you won't find the terraces so common in London. Single-family homes are the name of the game in Presidio Heights. In fact, there's very few apartments of any kind here, especially near the Presidio. This has contributed to some of the highest average property prices in the city, some years even higher than Pacific Heights, which does have quite a few apartments. 

There's quite a view of Presidio Heights when approaching through the Presidio from the north

Case Study 1.3: Pacific Heights

Pacific Heights is stylistically quite similar to some parts of Cow Hollow, a mix of architecture from the past 100 years. In Pacific Heights, however, everything is super sized. The largest homes in this neighborhood are positively massive, taking up the entire lot and several stories tall. Quite literally palatial mansions in the middle of a dense urban neighborhood. I find Pacific Heights to be much more homogeneous than Cow Hollow, without a clear east/west or north/south divide. Rather, the neighborhood has pockets here and there, with lesser or greater concentrations of expensive single family homes, usually dependent on their proximity to green space, of which Pacific Heights has plenty, with the Presidio to the west and two parks, Alta Plaza and Lafayette. For the most part the neighborhood is less commercial than Cow Hollow, with just a few shopping streets and a hospital among the non-residential uses. California Street, which forms the southern border, has a good deal of shops, as does Fillmore Street, but the area lacks a certain character. In fact, residents in the most exclusive areas are physically closer to Cow Hollow's Union Street. As with the previous neighborhoods, the Presidio and Lyon Street form the western border, Van Ness Avenue the eastern, and Green Street the northern border with Cow Hollow. Pacific Heights offers panoramic views of San Francisco, rising to 370 feet/112 meters above sea level at its highest point. 

From the intersection of Broadway and Divisadero, one can see all the way to the Transamerica Pyramid and Oakland across the Bay

From the top of Divisadero Street, an expansive view toward the Bay 

The oldest building in Pacific Heights was built in 1853 but most of the neighborhood dates to after the 1906 earthquake, when much of the city's wealthy migrated from Nob Hill. Cable cars facilitated the early popularity of the neighborhood, as walking distance and the multiple hills were no longer an important concern. Today the neighborhood is mainly accessible by car, though a bus does stop as far west as Alta Plaza Park, on the doorstep of the best streets. More than any other neighborhood this close to downtown, Pacific Heights is a residential neighborhood, aimed at those seeking peace and quiet in the big city. Due to the high real estate prices, it appeals to a demanding older demographic who appreciate the well-kept streets and large homes. As a consequence, Pacific Heights gets more than its fair share of criticism from many in the city, who view it as a wealthy enclave. Still, I appreciate the lack of electrical wires criss-crossing the streets and the evident care of the residents for their neighborhood.

Fillmore Street looking south towards Pacific Heights in 1895

Fillmore Street looking north toward the Marina around 1920, with a streetcar climbing the slopes

Spreckels Mansion on Washintgon Street around 1912. Image courtesy Library of Congress

Case Study 1.2: Cow Hollow

Sometimes thrown in with either the Marina or Pacific Heights, Cow Hollow is in fact its own neighborhood, characterized by busy shopping strip Union Street. Some of the confusion may stem from Cow Hollow's identity crisis, an east/west divide, in which the commercial eastern half is distinctly different from the residential western half. Even looking at the satellite image, the contrast between the two is evident, with far more greenery in the west. Indeed, the residential half can feel a lot like pricier Pacific Heights, which borders Cow Hollow to the south. Which is not to say that Cow Hollow is affordable, for it certainly isn't, being among San Francisco's most expensive areas to live. But because it has greater diversity in its housing stock, apartments can be had for significantly less than anything in Pacific Heights, especially in the eastern half. I'm interested in the best Cow Hollow has to offer, however, so my focus will be on the more residential half. To the north, the neighborhood is bordered by Lombard Street, to the west by Lyon Street and the Presidio, and Van Ness Avenue on the east. All in all some 58 equally proportioned blocks. As opposed to the Marina, Cow Hollow is strictly on the grid.

Few places have better access to the Presidio than Cow Hollow

The name Cow Hollow comes from the area's use in the late 19th century, once host to a large freshwater lagoon and hundreds of dairy cows. Once tanneries polluted the water, however, the lagoon was filled in and the cows ordered out. The wealthy streamed in to build mansions, often to replace homes destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, as the area escaped relatively unscathed. Most early development happened on and around Union Street. Today the street is a busy shopping destination, known for boutiques, restaurants, and health spas. Luckily the historical homes have survived, as Union Street is known as the first place in the city where historical homes were converted into shops. Some remnants of the dairy industry have also survived in the form of shops and bars. 

Cow Hollow is only four blocks wide. Note the lack of greenery here, the commercial eastern half. 

Backyards transition away the more eastward you go, and with them trees. 

The housing stock in Cow Hollow is generally a few decades older than in the Marina. There is a vast array of Victorian and Edwardian homes, the kind of homes stereotypical for San Francisco. Consequently, the neighborhood has a very different kind of urbanism. While the buildings in the Marina are fairly short, many just two stories, Cow Hollow is more partial to the traditional urban townhouse. Meaning narrow, tall, and deep. This results in more climbing of stairs (unless you have an elevator) but to me this has always been the purest form of urban housing. I fell in love with terraced housing in London and always delight in finding similar homes around the world. The United State's strong historical connections to England have had a profound impact on urban housing in large cities such as New York and Boston, and even San Francisco, albeit not as directly. The Victorian of the West Coast is far more flamboyant than in England, and in fact has a lot in common with Gothic Revival and the Arts and Crafts movement. A sort of hybrid of the three, almost always built of timber rather than brick. 

Victorian shops on Fillmore Street

Case Study 1.1: Marina

The Marina district is situated at the northeastern corner of the Presidio park, bounded on the west by the Palace of Fine Arts, on the east by Van Ness Avenue, to the south by Lombard Street, and of course San Francisco Bay on the north. Much of the city's rubble from the 1906 earthquake was dumped here, along with other landfill. The Palace of Fine Arts is all that remains of the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition, which once took up the entirety of what is now the Marina district.

Historical image of the 1915 Exposition

Today the Palace is a popular museum of science and art, the Exploratorium, as well as hosting a 1,000 seat theatre. The rest of the Exposition buildings were demolished and the land sold off to private developers, who built the neighborhood we see today. The 1989 earthquake caused considerable damage due to the soft landfill earth, but the land has since been made more earthquake proof, apparently. 

The western half of the Marina, with the Palace of Fine Arts flanking the western border

The Marina is a popular area not just for residents but for the whole of the city. It has been called the playground of San Francisco. This trend has intensified since the 1989 earthquake, when much of the neighborhood's middle-class base started to move out to be replaced by young professionals. Today, they make up over half of the population. Here's a funny article from the SF Weekly about Marina types. The marina is host to two yacht clubs and the Marina Green is popular for volleyball and Frisbee. Chestnut Street has dozens of well regarded eateries and restaurants, and Lombard Street is a popular nightlife location. During the day these same areas offer shopping in boutiques, antique shops, and art galleries. 

Marina Boulevard, separating the residential area from the marina and waterfront

It's certainly nice having all these amenities on the doorstep, but what I'm really interested in is the residential scene. The urbanism and the homes. Already in the above photo we can see a problem. Marina Blvd is a very busy road, not only cutting off the neighborhood from the water but deteriorating the quality of life for adjacent homes. It's practically a highway disguised as an urban street. It's not surprising the Marina has such a large parking lot for cars. 

Homes facing the waterfront. Architecturally not significant, almost like overgrown shacks. 

Things look up elsewhere, though. But first, let me explain how I choose areas to focus on. It's quite simple in actuality. Real estate. In London I came to realize that my favourite parts of the city are generally the most expensive ones. Wealthy individuals are still humans, after all, and are drawn to the nicest areas. Hence that drives the prices up in those areas, further leading to pleasant well-maintained areas. What about those who don't like such areas but instead prefer less expensive "trendy" districts? Well, that has a lot to do with a mental defence mechanism, in my opinion. Those areas are generally trendy because a trendy group of people, such as artists and young professionals, move there because they can't afford the rent in a nicer location. These areas then become fashionable, even take on a snobby air, with scorn placed on those who don't live there. Doubtless these same people move to an area they once derided if/when they come into a bit of money. But back to the Marina.   

The most desirable part of the Marina lies away from the busy roads, alongside the Palace. More specifically, a 3-4 block stretch of Baker Street.

Corner of Baker and North Point Streets

Portion of Baker Street facing the Palace. Cow Hollow and Pacific Heights are up the hill in the distance. This particular 1927 5,200 sq ft corner home sold for $7.1 million back in 2007. 

One can come away with the impression that the Marina is sort of like a normal suburb on steroids, a more dense version of a typical pseudo Mediterranean California style neighborhood. It is true that many of the area's most expensive homes are not in the best taste, and are not in fact historical at all but newly built. I would normally frown on such development, but somehow it works for me, here in the Marina under the bright California sun. California is anyway quite a young state, symbol of progressive thinking and beacon for the new. California is built on dreams. Only in California could you get away with this kind of architecture, elsewhere labelled as pastiche (maybe here, too). Put your hair down, laugh it off.

Case Study 1.0: San Francisco

I have chosen San Francisco as my first case study, because the West Coast still has a strong aura for me, having never personally been there before. On photos, this area of California has to me some of the most beautiful natural scenery in the world and an excellent climate. Furthermore, the US not being very densely populated, much of the surrounding countryside, especially northwards, is free of civilization, not something one is likely to find in Europe. San Francisco is the second most densely populated city in the country after New York, another big draw for me. It's a city full of history, a strong urban culture, and a hopeful future thanks to being at the heart of the high-tech industry. It's a city I could see myself living in. 

San Francisco is divided up into dozens of distinct neighborhoods. I won't analyze all of them, that would take a very long time. Many of them, especially out towards the edges of the city, are just like any other suburb in the US, so that immediately disqualifies them for me as being of any interest. The six I have chosen are very urban areas, established for at least 100 years. They're areas many of you will know at least a little about, or seen them in movies or on television. They're the greatest hits of San Francisco, home to the urban elite of the city. They're trendy and wealthy, for the most part, a common theme among the neighborhoods I like the world over because they tend to be most attractive. I'm a perfectionist, and I expect the same from my cities. I enjoy clean, well-kept areas, but beauty is more important to me. Hence, the areas I like tend to be wealthy, historical parts of cities, the more quirky aspects the better. There was plenty of that in my long time home, London, and plenty of it in San Francisco. The city is lucky to have such a hilly disposition, for it greatly enhances the city's neighborhoods, many of which have impressive views downhill and beyond to the water and Golden Gate Bridge. The neighborhoods I will be looking at:

1.1   Marina

1.2   Cow Hollow

1.3   Pacific Heights

1.4   Presidio Heights

1.5   Russian Hill

1.6   Telegraph Hill

Be sure to click on each to view the full case study.

Quick summaries of the neighborhoods: 

Marina

flickr : ken mccown

The Marina is the youngest of the neighborhoods here, being founded around 1915 after the Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Much of the district's area is former landfill from the 1906 earthquake, hence it frequently sustains the most damage after earthquakes due to the soft ground. This explains the relative lack of historical buildings in the neighborhood. Still, it has a pleasant feel and direct access to the waterfront. It retains its place as one of the city's most desirable neighborhoods.

Cow Hollow

flickr : Anomalous_A

Desirability goes up as you head uphill from the waterfront, and Cow Hollow is uphill from the Marina. Homes here have great views and a more refined atmosphere. There's a large collection of historical Victorian homes, adding to that typical San Francisco feel. Union Street straddles the southern edge of Cow Hollow, one of the city's best streets for shopping and restaurants. Sometimes the area is bunched in with the Marina or Pacific Heights but most residents see it as distinctly separate. 


Pacific Heights

flickr : SLDdigital

For many, this is the top, quite literally. Pacific Heights sits atop a hill in one of the most scenic areas of the city, with great access to the Presidio park. The neighborhood has some of the city's most expensive homes and is host to a number of consulates, institutions, and private schools. Built up mainly after the 1906 earthquake, architecture runs the gamut from Victorian and mock Château to modern. There are fewer apartment buildings towards the Presidio end of the neighborhood, but more towards the east.

Presidio Heights

flickr : Pacific Union International

For those in the know, this is the premier San Francisco neighborhood for families, the cream of the crop and envy of all stroller moms. While lacking the impressive city views of Pacific Heights, it is generally quieter and more relaxed, hence more family friendly. Strollers are a common sight among the large, well-maintained homes which have the highest average property value in the city due to the popularity of single family homes.

Russian Hill

flickr: John Weiss

This neighborhood is home to the city's most iconic street, the endless zig-zag of Lombard Street. It is popular with young urban professionals and a growing population of Chinese from nearby Chinatown. Boutiques and restaurants are bountiful and there's a diverse nightlife. The neighborhood also has a variety of living options, from condos to single family homes of all sizes and styles. Tourists can often be seen trawling the streets of this popular area.

Telegraph Hill

flickr : b00nj

Marked by Coit Tower on its hilltop, this is mainly a residential neighborhood, though the bustling nightlife of North Beach is just blocks away. Its rough terrain gives Telegraph Hill an eclectic makeup, with homes hanging over steep hills and tucked away down side streets. Recently the area has become known for its flock of parrots, not native but who now call the gardens along the Filbert Steps home. 

There we have it, the six San Francisco neighborhoods that form my case study. Besides giving a detailed view of the areas and analyzing urban aspects, I will feature local real estate and historical photos.